A few weeks ago I was guiding a client whose tripod was one of those flimsy plastic drugstore kind that you can usually pick up for about $30 bucks.  I offered to loan her my extra tripod, an aluminum Manfrotto with an inexpensive but effective ballhead.  She graciously accepted.  At the end of our two days together she confessed that she was surprised how much easier it was to work with my tripod than her own.  Eagle eyed as she was, she noticed that my tripod wasn’t aluminum and that my ballhead differed from hers.  She asked about the differences and why mine cost so much more, and her query put my mind in motion.  Below you will find a somewhat more detailed version of my response to her.

First let me explain why you need a good tripod for nature photography.  Photographing during the “magic hour” usually results in slow shutter speeds and long-ish exposures.  Unless you’re built like a statue you probably aren’t going to create razor sharp images while handholding your camera during an exposure lasting several seconds.  Image stabilization is great but even this cool technology has limits.  Enter the lowly tripod to save the day. 

Tripods serve one purpose: they’re a secure platform upon which to mount our cameras.  Sure, I’ve used mine to hold a lantern, maintain my balance while crossing a creek and, when I was single, it was abstract art in the living room.  But really, we buy tripods because we crave images that are crisp and sharp.  We also look really cool carrying them over our shoulder when silhouetted against a setting sun.  In theory, any tripod will serve this purpose.  In reality, those weak little tripods with plastic heads and one of those awkward cranks for moving the center column up and down just aren’t that stable.  Nor are they very durable.  I’ve had several clients break these tripods during a guided excursion.  A broken tripod serves no purpose but to frustrate the crap out of you.  It pays to spend a little extra cash and get a whole lot more stability and durability.  Here are some suggested options to start you down the right path in your quest for the perfect tripod.

For around $150 you can get a rock solid aluminum tripod like the Manfrotto 190XPROB.  Add a ballhead with quick release plate like the Manfrotto 494 Mini Ballhead for about $70 and you’ve got a stable, very workable tripod solution for under $225 weighing in at around 5 pounds.  Not too shabby!

Let’s say you’re of average height and need a taller tripod than the Manfrotto 190XPROB, which maxes out at 57.5″ with the center column fully extended.  The Manfrotto 055XPROB offers a maximum height of 70″.  Combine that with the more burly Giottos MH-1302 ballhead, which is capable of supporting up to 18 pounds, and you’re ready for almost anything.  This system will set you back about $300 and weighs in at nearly 6 pounds.

If you don’t often hike long distances with your gear or regularly operate in wet or dusty environments either of the aforementioned solutions should suit you well.  However, if you spend long hours on the trail or you’re like me and are downright abusive to your gear, an upgrade might be in order.

The Gitzo GT2531 Mountaineer carbon fiber tripod weighs in at a scant 3 pounds but extends to almost 64″ in height.  Slap on the Acratech Ultimate Ballhead, which weighs just 12 ounces but supports up to 25 pounds, for a go-anywhere in any conditions tripod package.  Total cost: about $950.  Yikes!  That’s a new lens, right?

What do you gain by spending an additional $650?  Really, it’s not so much a matter of what you gain.  It’s about what you lose – weight.  Generally speaking, the more money you spend the more weight you shave.  For $950 you get a complete package that weighs less than 4 pounds and will withstand some serious torture.  A similar set-up for $300 adds 2 pounds.  If you’ve a strong back and legs it may not be worth it to you to spend that extra $650 on the Gitzo/Acratech combo.

Yes, there are additional differences.  Carbon fiber doesn’t transfer cold to your hands as much aluminum.  The Acratech ballhead will never need to be cleaned and will never fail on you.  The Giottos ballhead; not so much.  The Manfrotto tripods allow you to place the center column horizontally for strange angle photography while the Gitzo does not.  Manfrotto utilizes leg clamps, which many consider easier to operate than the twist-lock legs on Gitzo tripods.  The downside: they’re bulkier and may not fit as nicely in your backpack.

In the end, any of these tripod/ballhead combinations will work for most nature photographers.  Consider too that these are but a tiny sampling of the options available to you.  Is one better than the other?  I guess that depends on how much cash you’re willing to shell out to lose a little weight.

What tripod/ballhead system do you use and why?  What issues have you encountered in the field with certain products?  Leave a comment so we can all benefit from your experience!

After 7 years of hard use the zipper on my old Lowepro Topload 70 AW finally failed and can’t be replaced.  I used that good ol’ chest pack hiking, backpacking, canyoneering and climbing and grew to love the immediate access it provided to my camera.  It did take a little while to get used to hiking without being able to see your feet.

Naturally, when it died, I picked up a replacement.  Lowepro made some changes to their entire Toploader line and I was excited to get my hands on the latest model.  We were in Phoenix so I headed over to Photomark and picked up a spankin’ new Toploader Pro 70 AW.  I was disappointed to learn that the new Toploaders aren’t sold with a chest harness.  You have to order one, and they aren’t even out yet.  Lowepro gets a big ol’ suckola for that bonehead move.

The new design is a little more streamlined and the fabric seems to be tougher, and maybe even a little more weather-resistant.  There are two external mesh pockets that weren’t on the original model.  Lowepro kept the compression strap and an attachment strap for accessory pouches.

New to this model are a Fastex buckle that supplements the main zipper.  I found myself leaving the pack unzipped and only fastening the buckle to allow even faster access to my camera.  Also, the main zipper now opens to the side of the pack rather than from the rear.  I’m not sure why this design change but I got used to it after only a few hours.

The rain cover now deploys from a hidden pouch on the side of the pack instead of from inside the front pocket.  This was a smart design change.

Lowepro added a small zippered pocket to the top of the pack.  I find this pocket to be perfect for my business cards, remote shutter release, microfiber cloth, hot shoe bubble level and the hotel room shower caps mentioned in this post.  They kept the front zipper pocket but it’s now considerably smaller.  In the old model I was able to carry 2 GND’s, a polarizer, a variable ND filter and a compass.  In the new model I have to cram the polarizer and vari-ND in and the pocket barely zips over them.

The main compartment is also smaller than on the old model.  Where I used to have room on either side of the attached lens to store additional small items, now there is none.  It’s a tight fit with my Canon 5D2 and attached vertical grip, and either a 24-105mm or 16-35mm lens, including hood.

Lowepro provides a padded 3 point shoulder strap that I promptly trashed.  Since the new chest harness isn’t yet available I attached the old harness for my field tests.  To date I’ve done 4 hikes with the Toploader Pro 70 AW, two of which were several hours long in rugged desert terrain.  The pack carries as comfortably as my old one, although I did note that it doesn’t sit as close to my body.  I suspect this is a result of using the old harness with the new pack.  After some use I grew to like the side opening design and I really like that I can use one buckle to keep the main pocket closed instead of having to zip and unzip it all the time.  My camera carries securely inside the pack, which is well padded, and was comfortable to wear for several hours at a time.

Overall, I think Lowepro has done a respectable job designing this new pack.  They should include the chest harness, and I hope it will carry closer to my body with the new harness attached.  I do wish it could carry a few more small items like my old pack.

Would I recommend the Lowepro Toploader Pro 70 AW?  Yep, I sure would.

See my response below for an update to this gear review.  Also, here’s a photo of my 550EX flash trying to fit in the front pocket.  As you can see, it ain’t gonna happen.  Sorry for the poor quality but it’s an iPhone snapshot.

I’ve owned and used the Acratech Ultimate Ballhead for almost 5 years.  I think I’ve probably got enough experience with it now to write a fairly qualified and informed product review.  Here goes…

The simple fact that I’m still using the Acratech Ultimate Ballhead after 5 years probably says more than anything I’m about to write.  I’m a gear junkie and I’m very hard on every piece of equipment I own.  That my Acratech Ultimate Ballhead is still going strong is either a fluke or it’s just one hell of a solid piece of equipment.  I’m of the firm belief that it’s the latter.

What I like:

• The open ball design requires no lubrication or cleaning.  Get it sandy, wet or muddy and it still operates smoothly.
• Made of CNC aluminum, the Ultimate Ballhead weighs less than a pound.  Mated to my carbon fiber tripod, the whole thing weighs in just under 4 pounds.  My back likes that a whole lot.
• Despite the flyweight, it’s about as durable as anything on the market.  Mine has clawed it’s way through slot canyons, been dropped on granite and dunked in lakes, rivers and creeks.  It’s beat to hell, but it just keeps working.
• Super easy to use.  No complicated mechanisms – just a couple knobs covered in a pliable rubber that don’t hurt your fingers when it’s cold.
• Even with a pro camera and 100-400mm lens attached, the ballhead locks down tight and won’t budge until you need it to.
• Top notch customer service.  This is huge to me, since most companies couldn’t care less about your business.  Acratech likes their customers and have always treated me well.  I have several friends who use Acratech products and they’ve all consistently received fantastic customer service.  Sooooo refreshing.

What I don’t like:

• The quick release mechanism is comprised of two tiny springs that push the clamp open as you loosen the knob.  If the clamp isn’t kept closed when not in use it is possible for the springs to pop out.  The ballhead still works, but requires a little extra effort to open the clamp.  When this happens Acratech will send you new springs at no charge.  I know this because in 5 years I’ve had to replace the springs 5 times.
• The main knob is larger than the other two.  This is good.  What isn’t good is that the other two knobs are the same size.  One operates the quick release while the other controls the horizontal axis movement.  If you aren’t careful it is possible to loosen the QR when you intend to turn the other knob, which could result in your camera going skydiving.

Update Feb. 13, 2011 – I bought another Acratech Ultimate Ballhead just a couple months ago to use on my back-up tripod.  I’m happy to report that they’ve resolved both issues mentioned above.  The QR release now doesn’t open far enough to allow the springs to pop out.  They’ve also made the knob that opens the QR mechanism an entirely different shape than the one that controls the horizontal axis movement.  What was a near perfect ballhead is now officially perfect.

As you can see, there isn’t much about the Acratech Ultimate Ballhead I don’t like.  It’s just a good piece of kit that I highly recommend for nature photography.  If and when mine ever dies I will replace it with another Ultimate Ballhead.

Do you use the Acratech Ultimate Ballhead?  What are your thought on it?  Leave a comment with your likes and dislikes.

I’m a pretty big fan of Apple stuff.  I love my iMac, couldn’t live without my iPhone (I know, sooooo sad) and take my MacBook Pro everywhere I travel.  So when Apple came out with the Magic Mouse I thought, “Oh sweet, I need that.”  I mentioned it to my wife, who must have mentioned it to Santa, because lo and behold one arrived in my stocking.  Imagine my excitement!  I tore open the package, inserted the batteries and downloaded the latest version of software to run this magical device.

As I held it in my hand I couldn’t help but stare in awe at the aesthetically pleasing design.  So sleek.  So aerodynamic.  So minimalist.  So…Apple.  I knew it was going to be good.  Once the new software finished downloading I ran from the living room to my office so I could immediately begin testing this slick new device.  It was going to change the way I computed.  Life would never, ever be the same.

I really wanted to like the Magic Mouse.  I used it for about 6 weeks before I begrudgingly admitted defeat.  My aching wrist just couldn’t bear to allow me to keep using the Magic Mouse.  So, I went to Best Buy (110 miles away in Grand Junction, CO) and bought a Logitech Performance MX mouse that I will review here after I’ve had enough time to develop an opinion on its performance.

What did I like about the Magic Mouse?

Not a whole heck of a lot, unfortunately.  It looks really cool.  The multi-touch technology is neat…in theory.  Yep, that’s about it.

What didn’t I like about it?

• The aerodynamic design bodes well if you mouse at very high speeds.  If you don’t the lack of support for your hand and awkward position openly invite carpal tunnel syndrome.  I just could not find a comfortable way to use the Magic Mouse.  I even invested in one of a mouse pad with a memory foam wrist support.  That helped a little, but not much.  Aesthetically pleasing, ergonomically ugly.
• This one is more of a personal preference but it was one of my gripes so I’ll mention it.  Regardless of how fast I set the tracking speed, it tracked too slow.  I’m impatient.  I want that little arrow to move super fast when I move the mouse and it just couldn’t keep up.
• I’ll admit that the Magic Mouse probably was not designed with the intent of pleasing those of us who are heavy Photoshop users.  If all you’re doing is surfing the web it’s probably acceptable.  For Photoshop, it’s a huge fail.  Precise selections are nearly impossible.  For example, the multi-touch feature makes it frustrating at best to drop a point at just the right spot when making curves adjustments.  I also found that when using Lightroom it was difficult to zoom in and out smoothly as the multi-touch was too sensitive.  Any unintentional side to side motion on the mouse resulted in panning the image rather than zooming in or out.

So, if you’re a Photoshop user and you don’t use a separate mouse or Wacom tablet for all your Photoshop needs, I simply can not recommend the Apple Magic Mouse.  It doesn’t matter how sleek it looks sitting there on your desk it just isn’t a good investment for extended use.  Sorry Apple, but the Magic Mouse is a fail.

When it comes to finding my way around the digital darkroom I’m a little on the lazy side.  I don’t mind doing things the hard way if the hard way is the only way.  But when an easy way exists it’s a pretty sure bet I’m gonna take it, so long as the results are at least as good as those gained from doing things the hard way.  Such is the case with black and white image conversions done using Nik Silver Efex Pro.

I started using Photoshop in 2002.  In the 8 years since I’ve converted a few color images to black and white.  Some turned out well, others not so well.  Okay, they sucked.  As Photoshop, and now Lightroom, have progressed it has become easier to do conversions with the built-in tools.  Even so, the results I’m getting with Silver Efex Pro are far better.  Remember that part about how I like things to be easy?  Well, Silver Efex Pro is pretty much idiot proof once you watch the free video tutorials on the Nik website.

Enough chatter.  Here’s what I like about Silver Efex Pro:

• Film types – Waaaaaaaay back before digital capture we used this stuff called film.  Photographers were weird about film.  We all had our favorite films, in both color and black and white, and we used them religiously.  Silver Efex Pro has a library of black and white film types that includes 18 popular films.  Mouse over a film type and you see an instant preview of your image as if it were photographed on that film.  When you find one you like just click on it to select it.  Cool!
• Here’s where things get super duper interesting.  Let’s say you select a film and you mostly like the results, but you’d like more or less grain, more or less contrast, a vignette, or a brighter or darker image globally or locally.  No problem!  All of this and more can be accomplished within Silver Efex Pro, making it easy for you to quickly customize your black and white image.
• Remember using colored filters with black and white film to darken skies or brighten foliage?  No?  Me either.  But, Silver Efex Pro includes a selection of filters that digitally create a similar effect.  With film if you didn’t like the effect you didn’t find out about it until after you processed the film, which resulted in wasted time and money.  With Silver Efex Pro if you don’t like the result, just de-select the filter and you’re right back at square one.

Those are the technical bullet points.  From a less technical, more emotional standpoint, what I really like about Silver Efex Pro are the results.  As I’ve mentioned, I’ve never been all that good at conversions.  It was an area of the digital darkroom where I was certainly deficient and that’s a bummer because I thoroughly enjoy good black and white photography.  With Nik Silver Efex Pro, I can now enjoy my own good black and white photographs.

What don’t I like about Silver Efex Pro?  Honestly, I haven’t found anything I don’t like.  It’s intuitive, it works and the results speak for themselves.  It’s just a solid piece of software that does exactly what it’s supposed to do.

UPDATE: I had to call Nik regarding a minor issue I had with the software download at purchase.  I expected the typical tech customer service nightmare.  What I got was a friendly, knowledgeable and very helpful person on the end of the line who resolved the issue within minutes.  Say what?  Yeah, good customer service from a tech company!

Wanna see some black and white images created with Silver Efex Pro?  Okay…see below.

I have no affiliation with Nik Software.  I’m just a happy customer.  There are lots of us, too.  If you’re one of ‘em, or even if you aren’t, feel free to leave a comment with your thoughts about Silver Efex Pro.

I’m a Mac.  I was a PC.  I switched about a year ago because I finally succumbed to all the marketing hype that Mac’s are just…better.  Now that I’ve been using my iMac for a year for all my digital darkroom needs I can say that I am genuinely pleased with the machine.  But I’m not one of those weird Mac freaks who wears all black and wells up with anger at the mere suggestion that PC’s deliver daily beatdowns to dainty Macs.  Nope.  I like my iMac, I like my MacBook and I love my iPhone.  I’m also rational enough to realize that you might just prefer a PC and that’s perfectly fine with me.  If that’s you this article isn’t for you.  Not because I don’t like you.  You just won’t learn anything since today we’re discussing how to properly calibrate the monitor on an iMac.  Check back tomorrow and all this Mac stuff will be in the past.

First, A Bold Statement

Post-processing your images on an uncalibrated monitor is a complete waste of time.  To put it simply, just don’t be that guy.  Spend a little extra dough for monitor calibration hardware/software, learn how to use it and then keep your monitor calibrated.

The iMac Calibration Conundrum

I’ve operated on a calibrated monitor for the better part of a decade.  I bought my 24″ iMac in March, 2009 and didn’t bother to research potential monitor issues prior to swiping the Visa.  Why would I do such a stupid thing?  I listened to the hype.  “Oh, Macs are made for image editing.  All the best pro’s are using them.”  That’s pretty much what the MacVangelists will tell you.  To their credit, they’re not that far off-base.  What they don’t tell you is that the super glossy and radioactively bright iMac screen is not easily calibrated using standard calibration hardware.

After much research, a lot of trial and error and more than my fair share of temper tantrums I finally got it all figured out.  I am now happily working on a perfectly calibrated iMac monitor.  The glossy screen is still annoying in all but the perfect conditions but at least I know the color I see on-screen is the color I will see in print.

How I Found My Happy Place

I learned early on in my research that iMac monitors can not be dimmed to an acceptable level using the dimmer switch.  They’re simply too bright.   I also learned that Spyder 3 Pro doesn’t work worth a crap on a Mac.  For that matter, not one color geek I spoke to had a single positive thing to say about the Spyder 3 Pro regardless of what system you’re on.  Your mileage with it may vary.

For hardware I selected the X-Rite i1 Display 2.  Reasonably priced, good reviews and several color geeks I know and trust personally recommended it.  If it’s good enough for them it’s good enough for me.  I was told that the i1 Display 2 would get my machine most of the way there.  I’m a bit OCD and “most of the way” wasn’t good enough. 

I was told that to finish the job properly would require software that controlled monitor brightness by highjacking the video card.  That software, ColorEyes Display Pro, works in conjunction with the calibration hardware to create the most accurate profiles.  And if you’re leary of shelling out $175 for the software you can download a fully-functioning free 10 day trial.

How Does It Work In The Real, Non Color Geek World?

I’m a geek, but I’m not a color geek.  I calibrate my monitor and I use the printer profiles provided by the print makers I work with.  That’s it.  I’m actually color blind so anything more than what I’m doing now is probably worthless to me.  What I’m trying to say is that I’m not a color management pro and if this solution works for me, it can also work for you.

I installed the ColorEyes Display Pro after receiving the i1 Display 2 hardware.  The download process ran smoothly as did installation of the i1Display 2 software.  So far, so good.

I quickly became a little confused trying to figure out how to run the ColorEyes Display Pro software.  In no more than 5 minutes I had it worked out.  Once up and running the software isn’t entirely intuitive.  It took a little bit of fumbling before I finally figured out how to begin the business of profiling the monitor.  Don’t be like me - read the directions first.

Once operational the rest was a piece of cake.  Place the i1 Display 2 puck in the spot indicated on-screen and the ColorEyes software does the rest.  It takes a few minutes for the magic to happen, you save the profile and the next thing you know, you’re running on a fully calibrated iMac monitor.  It really is that easy.

Yeah, But What About The Results?

The result: a perfectly calibrated monitor.  Prints that match what you saw on-screen.  Photos on your website that look just like they should.  Seriously, the results speak for themselves.  This system works flawlessly.  As with any monitor you should re-calibrate frequently to ensure that you are always working in a properly profiled environment.  On average I re-calibrate once every two weeks.

Since I started using this system in May, 2009 I’ve not had a single color management issue.  Color fidelity exists in my prints, on my website and in the various forums to which I post images.  This system works as advertised, folks.

Final Thought

If you’re an iMac user or looking to become one, and you need to work in a color accurate environment, I highly recommend the X-Rite i1 Display 2 and ColorEyes Display Pro software.

Update: Carl Donohue brought this to my attention.  Apparently some of the new iMacs have an issue with a yellow tinge visible at the edges of the monitor. 

This is all fine and dandy but I want to hear your experiences with color management on an iMac or Apple Cinema Display.  I’m sure others can learn from your trials and tribulations, too.  Share a comment!

Anyone who knows me knows I beat the living snot out of gear.  I don’t do it intentionally.  It just happens.  One day it’s new and shiny and the next it’s covered in dirt, abraded by slickrock and barely clinging to a modicum of usability.  This is especially true for shoes.  Way back when, during my pre-photography adventure racing days, I was offered the opportunity to do a gear test on a pair of Nike “backpacking” boots.  The test was supposed to run for 3 months.  The boots threw up a white flag at 1 month.  Apparently the folks at Nike were impressed with my ability to wreak havoc on their shoes because I’ve been an official Nike gear tester ever since.

As you might imagine finding durable boots that don’t require weeks of break-in isn’t an easy task for me.  Last summer, on a trip to Yellowstone and the Tetons, I neglected to pack my waterproof hikers.  Upon arriving in Jackson we were greeted with abundant snow still lingering in the high country and muddy trails down low.  I needed some waterproof boots and I needed them pronto.  We stopped at Teton Mountaineering and I wandered to the back of the store to check out the selection.  All the usual brands were there on the wall – The North Face, Salomon, Vasque.  And then there was Oboz.  O-what?  Never heard of ‘em.  An employee came to help and I explained my dilemma.  He suggested I try the Oboz Yellowstone Light Hiker.  He explained that it would fit my narrow to medium volume foot and that they are immediately comfortable – no break-in required.

I tried on the Oboz along with three other boots from the aforementioned collection.  To my surprise, the Oboz fit my weird foot perfectly while the others paled in comparison.  After walking around the store with the Oboz on my feet for about half an hour I decided to give them a shot.  Now, seven months later, I can say with absolute confidence that it was a wise decision.

I would usually start with my “likes” but this time I’m going to start with my “dislikes”.  Why?  Because they are so very few I’d rather just get them out of the way so we can move on to the good stuff.

A Couple Things I Don’t Like

• The hard rubber soles don’t provide great traction on the slickrock around Moab.  I can’t really say this is a design flaw or even a fault of the boot but it is worth mentioning.  If you do most of your hiking on slickrock, find an approach style shoe with a sticky rubber sole.
• The proprietary waterproofing (called BDry) is good but not great.  Gore-Tex is better.  eVent is the best.  Whatever technology they use seems to vent perspiration well and doesn’t leak through if you’re intermittently splashing through creeks or slogging through snow.  Stand in the middle of a creek because it’s the best place to compose an image and your feet get wet.  Is it fair to knock the boot for this?  Maybe, maybe not.  I’ve worn boots with other waterproof liners and my feet seemed to stay dry longer in the same conditions. (Update: Oboz contacted me after finding this post to advise that they are aware of some issues with the BDry membrane and that those issues have been resolved.  A “higher quality membrane” has been developed and is now in use.  They also noted that a new, all leather Yellowstone II will be out in 2010.)

Now On To the Good…And There’s A Whole Lot of Good

• Hiking boots this comfy right outta the box shouldn’t be durable.  Actually, they should be but they never are.  Until now.  The Oboz never gave me blisters or hot spots, they never felt too stiff and they never made my feet go numb.  What they have done is give me miles and miles and miles of super comfortable hiking in the mountains of Wyoming, the rainforests of Washington, the coast of Oregon and the deserts of Utah.  More importantly, after 7 months, they’re still going strong.  No delamination, minimal tread wear and all the seams are still intact.  Go Oboz!
• As I’ve already mentioned, my feet are weird.  I have a low arch, a razor thin heel and a narrow to medium volume forefoot.  Athletic shoe shopping is not my favorite thing to do.  I usually end up wearing thick socks and custom lacing boots that are too wide for my feet.  Not so with the Oboz.  I slipped in my Superfeet insole and the fit was perfect.  No custom lacing.  No unusually thick socks.
• Light hikers don’t usually offer much support when you’re carrying more than 15 pounds on your back.  I regularly carry almost twice that with all my photography and day hiking gear crammed into an abused pack.  The Oboz haven’t flinched.  I’ve not turned an ankle (knocking on wood at this very moment) and even after 10+ miles my feet don’t feel overworked.  I have no doubt these boots could be pushed into use for weekend trips.  Even with the support and durability these boots offer they don’t feel like big, fat leather bricks on your feet.  A men’s size 9 weighs 37.8 oz. per pair but they feel much lighter in use.
• Oboz boots/shoes incorporate different outsoles on each model.  The Yellowstone uses what they call the “Sawtooth”.  As I’ve mentioned it doesn’t grip well on slickrock.  But stomp through mud, dirt or rocky terrain and the outsoles shine.  Even on steep downhill trails covered in scree they seemed to bite into the terrain with terrific traction.
• Waterproof hiking boots aren’t cheap.  The Oboz Yellowstone retail for $125, which isn’t cheap but it is lower than the offerings of most of their competitors.  That combined with the fact that the Oboz will outlast the others means these suckers are a great value.

If you’re looking for a comfortable, reasonably priced, durable waterproof hiking boot and you’ve got a narrow to medium volume foot you should seriously consider the Oboz Yellowstone.  If you do and you feel like sharing your opinion stop back by my blog and leave a comment for all the world to see.

You can learn more about Oboz at their website, www.obozfootwear.com.

Disclosure: I have not been compensated in any way to write this review.  I am not sponsored by or affiliated with Oboz.  I just really dig their product.

As a new iPhone owner I found myself spending entirely too much time browsing Apple’s App Store.  There really is an “app for that”, no matter what “that” is.  I started to wonder if there were apps that could make my life as an outdoor photographer easier, better or more organized.  After a few weeks of downloading and using apps, some free and some not, I’ve found a few that really are helpful to nature photographers.  Some of these even came pre-loaded on the iPhone.  Here are my selections:

Compass (Free) - Yes, I have a digital compass on my watch, my GPS and an analog compass in my backpack.  So, why is the iPhone Compass so helpful?  It’s ridiculously easy to read and it even lists your current GPS location.  I like to use it with Sunrise & Sunset Pro as it makes it easy to determine where & when the sun will rise or set without introducing another gadget into the mix.

Sunrise & Sunset Pro ($1.99) - There are free apps available to determine that azimuth and altitude of the sun at any time of the day but none of the ones I tried were as easy to use as this one.  When used with the Compass it is amazingly easy to determine whether that peak before you will be frontlit, sidelit or backlit at sunrise or sunset.  Use it in conjunction with a topo map to pre-plan your photographic adventure before you even leave home.  Awesome!

Park Maps ($0.99) - Every single national park map, on your iPhone.  Zoom in, zoom out and scroll all around.  Each map is downloaded directly to your iPhone to be accessible even when out of cell service.  The maps are small and can be difficult to read for those with aging eyes like mine.  Even so, I find the app useful for identifying the location of campgrounds, visitor centers and most importantly, viewpoints and overlooks.

The Weather Channel Max ($3.99) - Current temperature, precipitation, wind speed, weather conditions, humidity and sunrise & sunset times.  Hourly, 36 hour and 10 day forecasts.  Severe weather alerts.  A radar map with past, present and predicted future movement of weather, i.e. rain, snow, clouds.  Tide information for coastal areas.  You can even save as many locations as you’d like for instant access.  I saved several of the areas I visit regularly.  It makes finding a weekend escape that much easier.

Google Earth (Free) - The same Google Earth on your computer in your hand.  Super cool!

Maps (Free) - Another app that comes pre-loaded on the iPhone.  Punch in any address and it uses the built-in GPS to provide directions from your current location.  Great when traveling around an unfamiliar city on your photography adventure.

Milog Lite (Free) - I use this handy mileage tracker to record miles driven on every photo excursion.  This is an easy and convenient way to keep track of mileage for tax purposes.

Notes (Free) - Yet another app that is pre-loaded on the iPhone.  I use it to keep notes of locations I stumble upon that appear to have lots of photographic potential.

Here’s an example of how I used several of these apps on a recent short trip.  While out four wheeling a new-to-me trail in the Moab area I discovered several sandstone peaks towering above a creek filled with green cottonwoods.  I recognized the potential for fall colors and broke out my iPhone to determine whether it was a sunrise or sunset location using the Compass and Sunrise & Sunset Pro.  It’s sunset.  I opened my “Locations to Photograph” note in the Notes app and added pertinent information about the location.  When I got home I transferred the trip mileage information from Milog Lite to my accounting software.  Awesome!

Have you found an App that’s great for nature photographers?  Leave a comment about it.  I’m sure readers of my blog would love to hear about it.  I know I would!

As an avid hiker I’ve long been disappointed with the backpack options available for photographers.  Dedicated photo packs organize camera gear well and are great when working not far from your vehicle.  However, none of them are designed for the trail.  Along comes Clik Elite, a new pack company whose tagline is “Performance Packs for Adventure Photographers”.  Hmm, I wonder – could this finally be the Holy Grail?

Ever skeptical I shelled out $310 on the Large Hiker pack from REI.com knowing that it could be easily returned if the product disappointed. Upon receipt I was immediately impressed with the pack’s build quality and features. Even more impressive is the fully adjustable harness. My long torso and freakishly short legs make it difficult to properly fit packs but I was able to quickly adjust the harness for a perfect fit. We’re off to a good start.  The bottom compartment is padded and divided to carry camera gear while the large top compartment carries your day hiking essentials and a Camelbak style water reservoir.  An extra pocket on the bottom uses weather-resistant zippers and contains an organizer for memory cards, hard drives, filters and other small photo goodies.  A second, larger external pocket on the top section is large enough to stow a first aid kit, headlamp, hat and gloves and most of the “ten essentials”.  The pack passed muster in the living room.  What about in the real world?

Fast forward after two months of use in the Pacific Northwest and here at home in Moab, and I’m excited to announce that the folks at Clik Elite got it right.  The Large Hiker carries as comfortably as any non-photo dayhiking pack I’ve ever worn, even after several hours on and off the trail.  Clik Elite’s designers gave this pack a real, honest to God waistbelt that does exactly what it should – transfer the weight of the pack weight to your hips.  Halleleujah!  Camera equipment stays well protected in the padded compartment and is easy to access when needed. I still carry my camera with attached 24-105mm lens in a Lowepro Topload Zoom chest pack for quick access. The padded compartment carries my 16-35mm and 100-400mm lenses, external flash, extra batteries and an extension tube with room left over for lenses I’ve yet to buy.  The large top compartment provides ample room to carry rain gear, food, diapers (for my son, not me!), a jacket and more.  The pack is hydration compatible with a reservoir pocket and hose outlet or, for old schoolies like me, mesh pockets on the side large enough to hold 32 oz. Nalgene bottles.  The pockets are even placed such that I can access my water bottles and put them back without assistance from another hiker or a kind trail stranger.  Nice!

Unfortunately, nothing in this world is perfect. Those mesh water bottle pockets are loose and there are no bungees or drawstrings to keep the bottles in place.  I’ve had many a Nalgene come flying out while scrambling up a steep slope.  My biggest gripe is with the tripod carrying system, or lack thereof.  Straps are provided on the top and bottom of the pack to carry a tripod horizontally.  Huh?  Nobody likes to carry tripods horizontally.  At least, nobody I know does.  Have you ever tried to squeeze through a slot canyon with a tripod mounted horizontally on your pack?  It doesn’t work.  I developed a jerry-rigged vertical carry by placing two of the tripod legs in the lower pocket and securing the ballhead with straps provided on the top of the pack.  It works well, except that you lose the ability to use that cool lower pocket.  That’s it for the negative.  Not bad, huh?

I contacted Clik Elite about my two concerns and was told that I am not alone in my opinion and that they have already resolved the issue.  The new & improved packs will be available in the first quarter of 2010.  I was not provided with details on the fix nor have I seen photos of the new packs so I can’t comment on whether or not “new & improved” really means “new & improved”.

If you’re tired of adapting regular daypacks to photo use, or just plain disgusted with the usual photo pack options you should consider the Clik Elite product line.  Their entire line of packs, pouches and organizers can be viewed at www.clikelite.com.

I will add photos soon…