I just stumbled upon a technique using the Tonal Contrast filter in Nik Software Color Efex Pro to recover shadow detail without any visible evidence of noise or loss of detail, and without affecting the rest of your image. This is great stuff!
Two of the most common problems I’ve seen when trying to extract more detail from deep shadows are an increase in noise and/or murky shadows that just don’t look right. I haven’t done extensive testing on this new technique but the tests I have run have been overwhelmingly positive. The best part? As I’ve come to expect from Nik, it’s easy as pie. Let’s get to the good stuff.
The image you see above, from Goblin Valley State Park, has nearly featureless shadows in the foreground hoodoos. Honestly, that’s exactly what I wanted – a nice silhouette to set off Wildhorse Mesa in the background. But, for the sake of this example, I’m using it to show you what’s possible with Color Efex Pro Tonal Contrast filter.
The image above shows you just how much detail was lurking in the shadows that I was able to pull out using the Tonal Contrast filter in Color Efex Pro. No muddy, ruddy or murky shadows, good detail and virtually no noise. The settings I used to achieve this were:
Highlight Contrast: 0
Midtone Contrast: 0
Shadow Contrast: 60
Saturation: 0
Shadows Slider: Approximately 1/2 power (don’t go above 1/2 power or things start to go downhill fast)
Highlight Slider: 0 power
And, if the first example wasn’t dramatic enough, how’s the one above? Again, I personally prefer the first image with the foreground hoodoos (goblins) almost completely in silhouette. But, these two examples show you the potential hiding in the Tonal Contrast filter. Here are the settings I used for this example:
Highlight Contrast: 15
Midtone Contrast: 15
Shadow Contrast: 80
Saturation: 10
Shadows Slider: Approximately 1/2 power
Highlight Slider: 0 power
A final thought on shadow detail: Almost any time you dodge (make lighter) shadows you’re also decreasing contrast in the affected area. Using other techniques, you’ll need to first lighten the shadows and then add back some contrast in the next step. Using this technique takes care of both in one step. Lastly, I’m a firm believer that not every shadow needs to have detail. Almost every image I process has some areas that are pure, featureless black. I set the black point in Lightroom as one of the very first steps in the process. I believe that having a nice, pure black really sets off the tones and colors of an image. But, that’s just my opinion so take it for what it’s worth (maybe nothing?).
So, now I’ve shown you yet another use for the amazing Nik Software plug-ins. I’m constantly amazed at what I’m discovering with each plug-in that’s included with Nik’s Complete Collection. Extremely powerful, extremely easy to use. Less time at the computer equals more time outside making new images. Sounds like a winner to me!
Don’t forget that you can save 15% off your Nik Software purchase by using coupon code “BEDGE” at the Nik online store.











6 Responses to “Recover Shadow Detail Using Nik Color Efex Pro Tonal Contrast Filter”
Richard Wong says:
Really creative framing, Bret. I think the first one is best with the strong foreground shapes taking precedence over the detail.
Bret Edge says:
Thanks, Richard. I agree that the first one is the best of the three. I shot it in silhouette intentionally. I used it here as an extreme example of what is possible with Color Efex Pro and the Tonal Contrast filter.
Bill Pelzmann says:
That’s a great tip that I will have to try. I use the Tonal Contrast filter all the time, but never considered it as a shadlow recovery tool! I agree, some true black is good.
BTW: does your discount code work for NIK upgrades?
Bret Edge says:
Hey Bill: I’m glad the tutorial was helpful! As far as I know the coupon code works w/ new purchases or upgrades. If you discover otherwise please let me know.
Rick Wright says:
I really enjoy your Nik tutorials. But which version do I really need/want? I have both Photoshop CS5 and Lightroom 3. I do 95% of my work in Lightroom. Do you use the Nik Lightroom plugins or are you using the Photoshop plugins. What are your thoughts on one vs the other?
Bret Edge says:
I’m glad the Nik tutorials are useful to you, Rick. Thanks for the excellent question! I can’t believe I haven’t addressed that here yet.
I have both, and at first I used them exclusively within Photoshop. I’ve since moved my workflow to almost entirely within Lightroom. The only Nik plug-in I still use in Photoshop is Sharpener Pro and that’s because I still prefer printing from within Photoshop. Keeping my workflow in Lightroom allows me to house ALL images under one roof, easily searchable when I receive stock photo requests and fine art print orders. The biggest disadvantage of this is that you can’t paint Nik effects on to your images in Lightroom like you can in Photoshop. It isn’t a huge deal, but it’s worth noting.
Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you.